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Thursday, September 02 2010
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Exploring Bordeaux’s Other Side PDF Print E-mail
by Eric Asimov   

From the New York Times

bordeauxwine.jpgIn a few months, Bordeaux will offer the first tastes of its highly touted 2009 vintage to members of the trade and wine writers. All concerned will debate which are the best bottles and no doubt lament the high prices they foresee for the top-classified wines.

Such is business in Bordeaux. Regardless of the periodic upheavals that shake out the Bordeaux trade, the region continues to pour out an enormous amount of wine annually. Yet most of that wine is routinely ignored in the public discussion of Bordeaux. Instead, the spotlight is on the top tier, the leading chateaux that account for a very small percentage of the Bordeaux production and yet receive 99 percent of the world’s attention.

But what about the other Bordeaux? When I was a graduate student in the early 1980s, wines from this other Bordeaux were the cheap wines of choice. Whites, in 1.5-liter bottles, were labeled Entre-Deux-Mers, for the large swatch of land between two rivers, the Dordogne and the Garonne. The cheapest reds were plain Bordeaux, from the most marginal of territories, or sometimes Bordeaux Supérieur, a modest improvement, and, if we were splurging, Haut-Médoc, a definite step up.

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