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 Last year I traveled quite a lot and had memorable meals in Houston, Providence, Block Island, Bristol (Rhode Island), and Los Angeles. When it comes to food, America seems on fire. Locavore is the new black. Eating seasonally keeps us connected with nature and ourselves. "Flavor profile" is now used in ordinary conversation. It's all good.
One of my favorite eating moments last year was, in the scheme of things, a small one, but it made a lasting impression on me. At Jose Andres' Bazaar, I had his Rojo Canary Island Potatoes. They are simply prepared. Small potatoes are boiled in heavily salted water until the water boils away and the potatoes are coated in salt. Served with a cilantro-parsley dip, they are simple, elegant, and delicious.
What made the dish so memorable was that I could duplicate it at home with excellent results. Andres goes to great lengths to import his potatoes from the Canary Islands. I stay closer to home and buy mine at the Palisades and Santa Monica Farmers' Markets. I discovered that any small-sized potato will do. To the eye the little salt dusted potatoes look very unimpressive, which makes a first-time eater's response all that more fun to watch. Their eyes go wide when they taste the salty-sweetness of the potato and they marvel that something so ordinary looking could have such an extraordinary flavor.
José Andrés' Salt Crusted Potatoes with Cilantro-Parsley Sauce
1/2 pound fingerling potatoes, washed
2 cups water
1/2 cup Kosher salt
2 garlic cloves, skins on
1 cup Italian parsley, washed, leaves only
1 cup cilantro, washed, leaves only
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Method
Put
the potatoes, water, and Kosher salt into a pot and simmer for 10
minutes. With a wooden skewer, test to see if they are almost cooked.
Pour off most of the water being careful to reserve as much salt as
possible.
Lower the heat and keep a watchful eye on the
potatoes. The goal is to evaporate the water completely so the potatoes
are coated in salt, being careful not to burn the salt or the potatoes. Cook another 3-4 minutes, then remove the potatoes from the pot and let cool.
Using
a kitchen towel, wipe the excess salt off each potato so there's only a
light dusting of salt on each. Do the potatoes one by one so the skin
doesn't break.
Place the potatoes on a plate.
Run a
skewer through the garlic cloves and char them on an open flame. Brush
off the blackened skins and roughly chop. Place the parsley and
cilantro leaves, the roasted garlic, black pepper, and olive oil into a
mini-blender and puree to a smooth consistency.
Pour the sauce
into a small bowl and serve with the potatoes. The sauce will keep for
a week in a closed container in the refrigerator and can be served with
fish and chicken.
David Latt is an Emmy-award winning television producer who turns to
cooking to alleviate stress. He shares his experiences with food and
his favorite recipes on his blog Men Who Like To Cook.
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