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by Amy Sherman
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I am hoarding rice. It's not what you think. I have fallen in love with
the precious samples of Koshihikari rice I was sent by an Arkansas
farmer. Mark Isbell grows a Japanese premium variety of short grain
rice and Isbell Farms has been exporting it to Japan since 1995. He has
only recently begun selling it in the United States under the name "Koshi Rice."
Last
Spring I got bored with white rice and virtually stopped cooking it. It
just tasted flat and mushy to me. Then in the Fall I went to Japan and
knew I would be eating a lot of it. What I didn't know is that the
quality of rice I would eat was far superior to what I was used to
eating. It was the harvest season and the rice was "new" and didn't
just have a tender texture but an almost floral, fruity scent. I was
hooked. Often the rice had just a bit of a garnish on it and that was
all. Once I spent $18 for plain freshly harvested rice cooked in a
stone bowl. I know it sounds insane, but it was worth every penny and
I'd order it again if I could.
So I was curious to try Mark's
rice. I've not been very impressed with California rice, could Arkansas
rice be that different? All I can tell you is: yes. It is that
different. As Mark describes it, koshihikari rice is shiny, smooth and
mildly sweet. It holds it's shape very well and is a typical choice for
sushi because it is a bit sticky, but in my experience it is fabulous
with almost anything. After cooking it for the first time Lee begged me
to cook it again and again. But because it's expensive, I have saved it
for special meals. But life is short. Regardless of the price, I am
going to stop hoarding and just start stocking up (especially since it
is available online).
Amy Sherman is a San Francisco–based writer, recipe
developer, restaurant reviewer and all around culinary enthusiast. She
blogs for Epicurious , Bay Area Bites and Cooking with Amy .
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