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 Fall has arrived in San Diego. This morning on our hike Jeff and I
could see our breath in the blustery morning air. We loved it.
There's nothing like a chill October morning with a crisp blue sky to
evoke feelings of nostalgia. Within minutes of our hike, our talk
turned to missing New England and our autumn traditions, like apple
picking, pumpkin carving, and decorating for Halloween.
One person in particular has been on our mind: my grandmother, Nan. Last October 5th, Nan turned
one hundred years old. She had no idea of the significance of the day.
But she did love her whipped cream covered chocolate cake with pink
roses, so much so, that she ate two big slices. Watching her enjoy that
cake was the best part of the day.
This past July, Nan passed away peacefully, with my mother by her side.
Yes, she was fortunate to live to 100. Still, I miss her. We all do.
 Next week Jeff and I are going back to Rhode Island. This morning on
our hike, I instinctively said to him, "When are we going to visit
Nan?" Then I realized, Wait a minute. We can't visit Nan. It's strange how that happens.
Feeling blue for Nan and for New England, I decided to make us
something soul-soothing: Nan's Italian Chicken Soup with Escarole. What
made her soup special was escarole -- a crisp, bitter type of endive
that lends robust flavor. If you're wondering where the mini meatballs
are, you won't find any here. Nan couldn't abide meatballs in chicken
soup, and neither can I. That's all there is to it.
This recipe is based on Nan's soup, though it isn't her exact recipe.
It couldn't possibly be -- she never used recipes. For her, it was
always just "a little of this" and "a pinch of that." This won't taste
exactly like Nan's -- no one's ever could -- but it will sooth your
belly and your soul. The way only your grandmother's chicken soup can.
Thanks, Nan.
Nan's Italian Chicken and Escarole Soup
Makes 8-10 servings
2-2 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 yellow onion, diced
3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
4 celery stalks with leaves, cut into 1/4-inch slices
12 cups chicken stock or broth
1 head of escarole, chopped (about 5 cups)
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped
1/2 cup grated Reggiano-Parmigiano cheese, plus extra for garnish
2 cups cooked ditalini or other small pasta, optional*
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with
tinfoil (for easy clean-up). Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil over
chicken. Sprinkle with several shakes of salt and pepper. Place in a
single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove,
and cool slightly. Then using a fork, shred the chicken.
2. Meanwhile, in a large pot over medium heat, add remaining 2
tablespoons olive oil. Add onions, carrots, and celery, and saute 5-7
minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the cooked chicken and broth.
Bring to a boil. Reduce to low. Add escarole, salt, crushed red pepper,
parsley, and cheese. Cook for 20-25 minutes. Taste it, and adjust
seasonings as needed. Add cooked pasta, if desired. Otherwise, serve
hot, and garnish each serving with additional grated cheese.
*Nan would add the cooked pasta only just before serving so it wouldn't
soak up all the broth. I do the same. I'd also highly recommend serving
some crusty Italian bread with this soup. How are else are you going to
sop up the broth at the bottom of the bowl?
Susan Russo is a
free lance food writer in San Diego,
California. She publishes
stories, recipes, and photos on her cooking blog, <Food Blogga and is a regular
contributor to NPR’s <Kitchen
Window. She is also the author of two upcoming books that will be published in the fall of 2010.
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