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From The N.Y. Times
 Oretta Zanini De Vita, the pre-eminent Italian food historian, seems
to have a tool for every pasta: a centuries-old ravioli cutter, a
wooden stamp that mints pasta like coins, a chitarra for creating thick
strands of tagliatelle.
On a recent morning, as she leaned over a custom-made poplar-wood board and rolled out a simple dough of eggs and flour for a southern Italian-style strozzapreti, she took out a long,
thin reed.
“If you don’t have a reed, you can always use an umbrella spoke,” she said cheerily, rolling flat strips of dough around the reed until the sides curled.
Ms. Zanini De Vita, a sprightly 73, has curly blond hair and bright blue eyes that light up
when she gets animated — which is often. As she raced around her ground-floor apartment fetching ingredients and utensils, her white cotton smock trimmed with lace gave her the appearance of a cherubic
altar boy.
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