Beef Back in Style at Covent Garden's Hawksmoor

by Nancy Ellison
Print Email

hawksmoormainSince (finally) it has been discovered that the fat in beef – oleic acid – is the same heart healthy fat that is found in olive oil, and since fat in beef actually decreases heart-disease risk (something about the ratio of good and bad cholesterol), and if you are not devouring sugars, a good, fatty steak is a good thing! Yes!

While it is still a bit hard to believe, it does make eating steak a bit more of a righteous thrill. And, I have found just the place to indulge in all things beefy! No, not in Peter Luger’s, not even in the stockyards of Fort Worth but at Hawksmoor, in the old Combe’s brewery in the heart of Covent Garden.

Covent Garden? London?? Oh Yes, and if you also like anything British with the word “sticky” in front of it, this cavernous, un-pretentious but friendly brew house is worth a destination journey. It is also quite possible that a corner table might host one of the West End’s glittering stars dining incognito. It’s that kind of place.

There were three of us devouring the menu like children: Ooooh Tamworth Belly Ribs, Oooooh Bone Marrow with Onions, Yum, Roast Scallops with White Port and garlic, Potted Beef and Bacon with Yorkshires… (Oooooo Yum)

porterhouse-sliced-on-board-tiff4With the hefty main course in mind, we settled on the Doddington Caesar Salad (made with Doddington Cheese from Northumberland - a cross between a fine Cheddar and Parmigiano – and most wonderful.)

But it was the Porterhouse for three and all the really delicious side dishes that made our evening. The steak was perfectly made - crusty on the outside, deep pink in the center and cooked over “real charcoal”.

The beef was from a Hawksmoor Heifer – “She’s a Longhorn, the oldest pure breed cattle in Britain.” The “rest,” as they call it - Beef Dripping Fries (OMG!) Triple Cooked Chips, Creamed Spinach, Native Lobster grilled with Garlic Butter, Butternut Mushrooms, and Mash with Gravy to name a few – produced a very fine comfort menu, indeed.

Now to the “sticky” part: Sticky Toffee Pudding (a steamed sponge-like cake with a remarkably subtle but complex flavored sticky sauce), Sticky Toffee Sundae made with Clotted Cream Ice Cream (Oh My. Clotted Cream Ice Cream, I scream), Chocolate and Salted Carmel Tart with Popcorn Ice Cream (huh?) and Peanut Butter Shortbread.

There is more, but why go on; our inner children were already quite busy enough putting sticky fingers in every pot!

Hawksmoor: 11 Langley Street, London | 020 7397 8120

 

Nancy Ellison, award winning photojournalist and celebrity portraitist, has authored fourteen books of photographs, including "Romeo and Juliet: The Love Story in Dance" and "Starlet". Her latest book is "Wagner's Eternal Ring".

Comments have been closed for this piece.

 

restaurant news

Autumn in New York
New York
by Michael Tucker

chicken-wings-300x300The weather turned yesterday.

The air was suddenly, blissfully free of the sodden end-of-summer heaviness and the scent of August — that heady perfume of sixteen million sweaty feet in sandals —...

Read more...
Reuben, Reuben, I've Been Thinking
New York
by Michael Tucker

eisenberg-sand1-300x258.jpg“Have you ever been to Eisenberg’s?” This question from my daughter, Alison. “Shannon and I went after the gym the other day,” she says. “Best Reuben I’ve had in a long time. You should check it...

Read more...
Redrum Burger
San Francisco
by Scott R. Kline

redrumsign.jpgRedrum Burger in Davis, CA sits catty-corner to an In-N-Out Burger just off the freeway. Redrum was there long before In-N-Out and judging from the line at lunch time on a recent Thursday, they...

Read more...
Quincy: Fuji 1546
Boston
by Kitty Kaufman

FijjibarI'm not sure who declared Fuji 1546 has the longest bar in Quincy; a local editor, reporting two years ago, or the website. Either way, it is major. If you want a seat, you can have one. High...

Read more...