This time of year in Maine the soft shell lobsters are “in” season and are very plentiful and inexpensive. You ask what is a soft shell lobster? Is it like a soft shell crab, do I eat the whole thing, shell and all? No, no, not all all similar. In order for a lobster to increase their size, ie. “grow” they have to shed their old hard shell. Two weeks before this happens they form a soft, thin shell under their hard exterior. Once the thin shell is formed under the hard shell they dehydrate, shrinking the soft membrane shell which contracts to the lobster’s meat, then the pressure builds until the old hard shell breaks open and the lobster pulls it’s new body out. First they pull out the claws then the tail and finally the body. Once this happens they fill themselves up with sea water. They balloon up with water, especially in the claws which are half water and the tail is about a quarter filled with sea water. The cooked meat of a soft shell is bright red and more tender then a hard shell lobster. The new shell looks exactly the same in coloration but it is as thin as syran wrap.
The vulnerable lobster goes into hiding during the metamorphosis, usually occurring in the last two weeks of June. It is based on water temperature and light. The shedding takes place many times during the first year (up to 7 times), an average size lobster (pound to 1-1/2) does this once a year and the larger lobsters (2-3lb.) shed only every 3 or 4 years. In my opinion the best time to eat a soft shell or new shell lobster is mid-August, by this time the lobster has grown into their new shell and the ratio of water to meat is nearly perfect.
This is the time of year that everyone from “away” wants to visit someone that they know in Maine. Growing up we always ate lobster every Friday dinner year round but we all looked forward to my Mother’s famous soft shell lobster spaghetti and so did the house full of company that booked in for every August weekend. She cooked 3 pounds of pasta and used a dozen lobsters. I always hoped that a small dish would be leftover for my morning breakfast if I could stay out of the refrigerator until the sun rose....
Julie D’s Lobster Pasta (my version)
6 August soft shell lobsters, 1 1/4 lbs
3 -28 oz. cans of good quality plum tomatoes
8 cloves of garlic, chopped
1/3 cup fruity olive oil
1/4 cup italian parsley, finely chopped
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoon dried oregano
1-1/2 pounds good quality linguine
In a large pot heat the olive oil on medium heat, add finely chopped garlic and parsley until it is fragrant (2-3 minutes) add the tins of tomatoes (enjoy the happy sizzling sound). Next add the bay leaves and oregano. Let this simmer happily at a low simmer for an hour. What you are after is a thick, old world sauce-darkened red with small pools of olive oil around the side of the pot.
Now for the magic part of the dish. Take the lobsters out the refrigerator, place on a cutting board, get a sharp knife and hold your breath. Start chopping each lobster into pieces-the tail into 3 pieces, the claw stays whole, the knuckle get chopped at each joint and the body get split in half. Take all the pieces, juice and all dump into the thick sauce on low heat. Repeat 5 more times. As you add each lobster the sauce starts to rehydrate with the unctuous lobster juices pouring out into the sauce bringing the sauce to just the right consistency. The low heat slowly cooks the lobster but also helps to meld the flavors into a seamless feast.
Cook covered for 25 to 30 minutes at a slow simmer until the lobster pieces are bright red. Cook the pasta 15 minutes before the sauce is finished. Drain the pasta, add to the lobster sauce, toss well and serve on a large platter that you have warmed with hot water and dried well. Garnish with parsley, basil and lots of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Don’t be surprised if someone knocks on the door just as you sit down to this feast that you haven’t seen in a while. After all, it is August in Maine!
Brenda Athanus runs a small gourmet food shop in Belgrade Lakes, Maine with her sister Tanya called the Green Spot.
The Green Spot
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
207.441.9327