Ice Cream

In Margate, New Jersey, there is an ice cream shop that time forgot. It is called Two Cents Plain and it has little white wire chairs with red and white striped seats, red and white wallpaper festooned with whimsical line drawings of flappers in long necklaces and gents in boaters, and a jar on the counter where customers can deposit tip money for the scoopers’ college funds. It looks just the same today as it did in 1979, when I had my fifth birthday party there.

We had the whole place to ourselves that day! What a thrill for a five-year-old. More thrilling still were the ice cream “clowns” (still on the menu) which were presented thusly: a scoop of ice cream on a plate, and a sugar cone inverted on top as a hat, point side up, and a face drawn on the scoop of ice cream with Red Hots. I had asked for a baby sister for my birthday that year and instead was presented with a baby brother, and the ice cream clowns went a long way towards placating me.

A few weeks back, Patricia and I made this angel food cake which was delicious. It also left me with 9 egg yolks. 9 I say! I gave Eli the choice of what to do with the yolks; pot de creme, lemon curd, custard, ice cream. He, of course, chose the ice cream. He and I sifted through David’s book, The Perfect Scoop and it was a toss up between two flavors. I have made a lot of David’s ice creams and I really didn’t want to repeat a recipe. The Butterscotch Pecan got the final vote. And I am so glad it did.

The key word in this recipe is “butter”. The butter mixed with the brown sugar is the flavor profile that resonates on the back of your tongue, long after the ice cream has left your mouth. Mind you, I am not a huge ice cream fan. Generally, I pass on this decadent dessert and go for the apple tart with caramel sauce or a piece of chocolate or the gourmet doughnut (fried-yes, I love a really, really good doughnut). This ice cream is like no other. It is in a class all by itself and this ice cream could send me to a Weight Watchers meeting each week: confessing that my daily points were consumed with a scoop of this ice cream.

If anyone asks what my favorite fruit is, I always answer peaches, but not just any peach. White peaches are my absolute favorite fruit. Besides eating peaches as they are, my other favorite ways to enjoy them are in desserts. I love this peach galette, a foolproof fruit tart recipe that I rely on every summer. But I also love to make sorbets, ice creams, and sherbets. What could be a better dessert than a cooling scoop or two? This summer it's white peach sherbet all the way.

Just think of the sherbets from when you were a kid and the ones available in the supermarket. Don't you ever wonder what those fluorescent colors are actually made of? They're hardly fruit. Though as a kid I too loved eating them, but not anymore. This recipe couldn't be easier. Sherbet is unlike ice cream in that the milk or cream is not cooked. In ice cream you almost always need to make a custard from eggs and milk and simmer it until thick. Sherbet is simply puréed fruit mixed with milk and then frozen.

"We all scream for Ice Cream..." but what flavor and from what shop and why? National Ice Cream Month begs the eternal question, "What's YOUR favorite kind?" One for the Table asked some of our favorite scoop fans to reveal their guilty pleasures....

Andy Warhol Ice Cream Cones w/ Tray

Mine is the caramel gelato at the Piazza Del Popolo -  when in Rome there is NOTHING better - Or was it the gorgeous young purveyors seductive,"Bella, Signorina!!!"

I always order toasted coconut almond.  Not because I like toasted coconut almond. In fact, I hate toasted coconut almond.  I just order it because I feel sorry for it because everyone hates toasted coconut almond.  So I order toasted coconut  almond, dump it in a trash can when no one's looking, then go back to the store and order cherry vanilla which I really like. – Alan Zweibel, writer

"You haven't had ice cream till you've had Graeter's. The butter pecan is Stedman's favorite, and mine, too." — Oprah Winfrey from her O list

A Tin Roof Sundae ! ! French Vanilla Ice Cream is topped with warm heavy chocolate syrup mixed with some finely ground black pepper and the roof, of course, are salted peanuts. Go way! Get your own! – Marilyn Lewis, owner of Kate Mantillini.

Sadly, not available to the public. My husband's freakish devotion to our Masso Gelato maker helped him churn out "Earl Grey Tea with Honey" gelato. The best thing I've ever eaten! – Eva Ein, co-owner of Stella Mare restaurant in Montecito

Stephen Colbert believes the Ben & Jerry's flavor made in his honor, AmeriCone Dream, can make a difference. “I’m not afraid to say it. Dessert has a well-known liberal agenda. What I hope to do with this ice cream is bring some balance back to the freezer case.”

My favorite flavor is, and has been for forty years, 31 Flavors Jamoca Almond Fudge. I get it on Cerrillos road, in Santa Fe. – Brooke Palance Wilding, artist

There is absolutely no question that the best ice cream is made on Nana's terrace in the back garden in Waco, Texas. We still use the old fashioned rock salt and real cream but have finally acquiesed to an electric turning handle. When the fresh peaches reach their ripest that is the time for an ice cream party. Everyone gathers. The mint julieps flow and ice cream becomes the flavour of the evening. – Alice Faye Cleese, Radio Host